Threads of Heritage: The Timeless Elegance of Indian Embroidery
Overview
Before we deep down in the history of embroidery, its importance, cultural significance, and the struggles of artists behind this amazing art style. Let’s take a look at the basics we know about embroidery.
Embroidery is an art of decorating any material (mostly it is done on cloth). We all might have done embroidery during our childhood. Remember making your name initial on a handkerchief, that’s the simplest way you can figure out what embroidery is and why it’s popular. It turns basic fabric into a beautiful piece of art.
History
There are references to embroidered clothes in sacred texts like the Rig Veda and the Ramayana. Tools such as needles and other materials used in embroidery were discovered during the survey of Harappa and Mohenjo-Daro sites. All these facts confirm that embroidery work has been going on for more than 1000 years.
Embroidery flourished as a royal craft during the Mauryan and Gupta empires, and it was used to decorate temples, wall hangings, and clothing.
As India’s kingdoms grew, regional forms emerged.
- Kantha from Bengal
- Phulkari from Punjab
- Lucknow’s Chikankari
- Gujarat Kutch Embroidery
- Rajasthan Mirror Embroidery
- Zardosi in various parts of the country
British colonization changed customary trade patterns and brought new materials like synthetic dyes. Despite industrialization, hand embroidery continued to play a significant role in Indian culture, appearing in regional clothing, festivals, and weddings.
Indian embroidery is still very popular today, combining traditional and modern styles to support rural livelihoods and appeal to a worldwide fashion audience.
Recognition through the Geographical Indication Tag
To honour and protect its cultural and artistic identity, the GI tag recognizes embroidery across the nations. The GI tag safeguards their artistry from imitation and mass-produced copies, ensuring fair recognition and value for their authentic handwork.
1. Lucknow Chikan Craft
Lucknow Chikan Craft is indeed a very alluring art reflecting the rich culture of India. Intricate designs crafted by hand on light fabrics with traditional Chikan designs make it comfortable to wear in any season. This craft is more than fashion; it gives respect to the ancient history of this city.
2. Phulkari
Phulkari is a traditional embroidery art from Punjab, known for its vibrant floral patterns and intricate stitching. The craft involves using colourful silk threads on coarse cotton fabric, creating stunning geometric and floral designs. Historically, Phulkari was an essential part of Punjabi women’s attire, symbolizing cultural heritage and craftsmanship.
3. Sujini Embroidery Work of Bihar
Artisans make Sujini embroidery by hand with beautiful stitches and strong threads, so you get silky, smooth, lightweight fabrics that won’t irritate your skin. They create one-of-a-kind styles and colours that don’t fade. It’s a testimony to the rich cultural heritage of Bihar. For those who look for real artistry.
4. Chamba Rumal
A unique embroidered art from Chamba, a picturesque town in Himachal Pradesh, India. Known for its delicate craftsmanship, this art involves fine embroidery on a cloth piece using untwisted silk threads. The designs often depict scenes from mythology, epics like the Mahabharata and the Ramayana, and everyday life, showcasing intricate patterns and vibrant colours.
5. Gujarat Suf Embroidery
Gujarat Suf embroidery is a traditional craft from the Kutch region, characterized by its detailed geometric patterns created entirely by counting the warp and weft threads on the fabric. The designs are typically symmetrical, featuring motifs inspired by nature. This embroidery is done with vibrant silk threads on cotton or silk fabrics, showcasing the artisan’s exceptional skill in precision and attention to detail.
Process of Embroidery
The combination of creative skills and technical knowledge results in the art of embroidery. The process involves several careful steps:
1. Designing on Paper
The very first step of embroidery begins with selecting the right design and determining which pattern or motif complements the theme or idea behind the creation. There are multiple designs, such as geometric, floral, natural, traditional, sacred figures, and any other self-created designs. Artisans draw their design by hand or print it before transferring it onto the fabric.
2. Transferring the Design to Fabric
After making and finalising the design, multiple tools of copying are used to transfer the design on the fabric. Artisans used trace paper, carbon sheets, or light boxes and many other copying devices to get the exact design on the fabric. In traditional techniques, the contours are marked by artists using template designs or chalk powder. This stage guarantees that the embroidery stitches are made according to a precise guide.
3. Fabric and Thread Selection
Choosing the right fabric and thread is the most important decision; the quality, durability, texture, and feasibility of designs depend on this decision. There are various kinds of fabric, such as silk, cotton, velvet, linen etc, and thread such as silk, cotton, wool, and metallic. Artisans select embroidery materials as per their need, budget, and availability.
4. Setting the Fabric in a Frame
A hoop or frame is used to tightly hold and stretch the fabric. When stitching, this maintains the surface’s solidity and avoids puckering or creases. Additionally, it permits smooth needlework and even tension.
5. Stitching the Design
True embroidery starts with stitching; we often call this process the definition of embroidery. Artisans select the stitching method (running stitch, cross-stitch, stem stitch or satin stitch) as per their needs; it’s mainly done by hand, and some hand-held tools (machines are used only for large-scale production).
6. Decorations as per requirements
To make it more eye-catching and vibrant, different decoration elements like mirrors, pearls, beads, and sequins are added. For example, metallic threads and mirrors are used in Kutch embroidery.
7. Finishing, Cleaning, and Preservation
After completing embroidery, fabric is washed to remove dirt and ironed for final touch. Loose threads are trimmed and inspected for quality. The finished piece is stored in a soft cloth to prevent damage.
Struggles of Artisans in the Indian Embroidery Industry
1. Low Wages and Lack of Recognition
Most artisans receive payment based on piecework, which is very low; hours of hard work won’t be considered for reward. Branding and Designers take all the credit, and the real artisans barely get any recognition.
2. Poor Working Conditions
Artisans work in a pathetic environment (cluttered spaces, poor hygiene, and no proper tools and gadgets). All this impacts the health of the artisans; they suffer from eye strain, back pain, and other health issues.
3. Declining Traditional Skills
As time passes, it becomes difficult to preserve old techniques and methods without any support from the government or other non-profit organisations. Many embroidery methods now require documentation to safeguard their techniques and processes. New artisans must be trained and cherished to continue these old embroidery crafts.
4. Lack of Market Access and Fair Trade
Most artisans depend on local traders, who often dictate prices and control supply chains. Limited awareness of online selling or branding keeps them disconnected from potential buyers.
5. Modernization, Machine and Mass Production
Modern methods and machines are the need of the hour to meet the demands of a large population. However, hand-embroidered items are more costly and require longer to complete. This change diminishes the value of hand craftsmanship and discourages traditional artisans.
6. Rising Cost of Raw Materials and Lack of Financial Support
The prices of raw materials are constantly rising. Thread, cloth, needles, and other tools have become more expensive than ever. Although government schemes exist for handicrafts and handlooms, awareness among artisans is low. Without business knowledge or marketing skills, they remain dependent on intermediaries.
Modern Revival and Relevance of Embroidery in India
The art of embroidery is experiencing a resurgence as sustainable fashion trends become popular among the younger generation, and designers need traditional artisans to create sustainable clothing for modern consumers.
Mixing and blending traditional techniques with modern styles results in new patterns and designs, making embroidery fresh and relevant to current trends and fashion. Meanwhile, hand embroidery has its own aesthetic appeal and is highly valued as an enduring art that connects India’s past with the present.
Conclusion
Indian embroidery is deeply rooted in our culture and tradition. Each region has its own unique styles and methods, and talented artisans across the country workday and night to create truly remarkable pieces of art. Many organisations are helping artisans associated with embroidery by educating, providing them a stage and fair-trade opportunities. The government’s GI tag recognition also helps in preserving these embroidery crafts and connecting them globally.
